Tag 1 (Sattel Pass [near Schwyz]) -- What a day ... right when I got up, I
knew it was wet. As I got everything ready, it got wetter. I ate a big
breakfast with Marlis and Urs. She gave me waterproof spray, which I put
liberally on my jacket. I said good-bye and headed out in the rain. My
jacket did fine all the way to Luzern, and the ride around the lake was
very nice despite the rain. I took the ferry across the lake and that was
nice, too. I rode to Brunnen and started following the omnipresent hiking
trail signs (Wanderweg). This wasn't such a great plan here, since I got on
a little cow road with deep ruts and steep banks on both sides. It was
pretty steep, but I got up it and rode through some real out-of-the-way
access. I saw quite a bit of Lawine damage. It was pissing with rain still
-- no break, but I did have a tail wind. I rode to Stalden where I found
the sign that said the Pragel Pass was closed. I didn't quite believe it,
and I wanted to see why. So up I went several hundred meters up this
monster. There was a bus stop-looking thing. Of course, no buses go there.
Even more amazing, there was an old guy sitting there. I chatted with him a
bit and then continued up against his better advice. Another couple meters
of elevation, there was a lot of snow and there was a lady just walking on
the road. We chatted and she gave me my new favorite compliment ("Are you
from Holland?" -- I need to visit that place). I was making a big cloud of
steam when I got to the unpaved, snowy part. I pushed for a while, but
finally threw in the towel as the terrain got too nasty. Well, shit. So
much for that tail wind. Down I went, back to Schwyz. About 35 km wasted
(not to mention the 600m+ climbing on 18% grade roads). My map says
18%, but it has been known to lie! Then I started climbing again, but
gentler near the top (it was a LONG climb). I found a restaurant with a
little sign with the word "camp" on it. I inquired, and the owner (who
sounds EXACTLY like Susan's dad) said I could do whatever I wanted and pay
the same. OK. 10 CHF and I'll camp there. It is obviously very muddy, but
I'm set up on a platform made of wood and astroturf. I had a glorious
shower. I spent a lot of time hanging my gear to dry in the W.C. (I seem to
be the only customer). The family just ate dinner in the restaurant. I
think they just opened their house and yard just in case. It's still
pissing with rain and now I have to go back out there and set up the
sleeping bag/bivy and get in. I hope that goes OK. -- I'm in the bag now. I
can hear a train crossing gate pinging in the valley below from time to
time, but there is also a nice H2Ofall that (???). My sleeping bag seems
good. I'm pretty tired. I only ate junk tonight, but I'll focus on good
eating tomorrow (and dryness!). Oh ya, my shampoo came open sometime today.
Just what I needed. Hey! It's not actually raining!